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It's said that if diamonds are a girl's best friend, then pearls must be her favorite sister. This lustrous gemstone is one of the June birthstones. It acquired its name from the ancient Romans, who wore elongated pearls as ear pendants that they called pirla, a slang diminutive of pira ("pear"). The pearl is an organic gem grown within oysters and a few other mollusks. It is formed when a foreign object, like a tiny stone, makes its way into the mollusk's shell. The irritation caused by the foreign particle makes the oyster form a secretion, called nacre, to cover it. Nacre is the same material that forms the mollusk's shell. When dried, the particle again irritates the animal, so it begins to secrete again; as thousands of layers of nacre coat the intruder, a pearl is formed. The process takes anywhere from four months to seven years — the longer the process, the bigger the pearl. A single mollusk can create dozens of pearls at a time, depending on how many particles enter the shell. "Cultured" pearls are those in which people, rather than nature, implant the intruding material, and the mollusks are cared for in a protective environment (a pearl farm) while coating process goes on. Nearly all pearls available today are cultured, and only one out of four cultivated oysters lives to create a marketable pearl. Natural pearls are very rare (and valuable!), so the word "pearl" should be assumed as "cultured pearl" unless otherwise noted.
Some mother-of-pearl beads are cut from shells of the same mollusks that create pearls, as both gemstones consist of nacre. Nacre is mainly composed of aragonite (calcium carbonate) and conchiolin. Pearls are quite soft (Mohs scale hardness of 2.5) and are among the world's softest gemstones. When viewed under magnification, discontinuous wavy lines are visible throughout the pearl. This stone is distinguished by its iridescence and luster, as well as by a delicate play of surface color called orient. Freshwater pearl shapes vary greatly and include corn, potato, teardrop, rice crispie, rice/oval, and almost round or roundish. For oriental pearls, the more perfect its shape (spherical or droplike) and the deeper its luster, the greater its value. Other factors that affect value are the regularity of the shape, size and color. The surface of a pearl is rough to the touch. Cultured and natural pearls can be distinguished from imitation pearls by a simple test: Rub the pearl gently against the edge of your tooth. Cultured and natural pearls will feel slightly gritty, like fine sandpaper, while imitations will feel as smooth as glass (because the surface is molded or painted on a smooth bead). However, this is not always a reliable test, as some imitations have achieved "grittiness."
Saltwater pearls are commonly known as Oriental pearls and those produced by freshwater mollusks are called freshwater pearls. Our pearl stock is freshwater only, and like most other freshwater pearls, is cultured in China. Most cultured fine pearls are produced in Japan. In the warmer waters of the South Pacific, large Tahitian black pearls are cultured. Pearl color varies with the mollusk and its environment. It ranges from black to white, and India's rose pearl is among the most popular colors. Other colors are cream, gray, blue, yellow, lavender, green and mauve. Color type is often affected by the mollusk's diet, but enhancement is a common way to produce different colors. For example, pearls are regularly bleached to improve their whiteness — this permanent enhancement provides a more uniform appearance. Pearls are extremely porous, so they readily accept dyes. Dyes can be used to produce any pearl color, which makes it easier (and therefore less expensive) to create matched strands. Be aware that dyes can fade over time. Irradiation (applying gamma rays to a stone) darkens the nucleus to produce darker pearls, like blues, grays and blacks, and most experts believe the treatment to be permanent. Metallic pearl colors are often gamma-ray irradiated as well. In some cases, they are irradiated AND dyed. As a rule of thumb, all bright or striking pearl colors are dyed and/or enhanced.
Pearls were once important financial assets, comparable in price to real estate, as thousands of oysters had to be searched to find a single pearl. They were rare because they were created only by chance. Pliny the Elder wrote that Cleopatra once bet Mark Anthony that she could serve him a dinner so expensive it would never be equaled. The banquet was indeed opulent but no more so than Cleopatra had served on other occasions. Mark Anthony thought he had won the bet until Cleopatra, who was wearing two huge pearl earrings valued at $1.3 million in modern currency, removed one and dropped it into her glass of wine, where it quickly dissolved. She then drank the concoction and a judge declared Anthony the loser. Legend also says Christopher Columbus was sure he had arrived in Japan, already famous for its white orbs, when he discovered American Indians wearing pearls.
The Chinese were the first to culture a product from freshwater mussels, beginning as far back at the 13th century; however, their creations were not traditional pearls, but rather shell mabes (blister-shaped or hemispherical pearls). Japan cultured the first fully shaped freshwater pearls after experimenting with freshwater mussels in Lake Biwa, a large lake near Kyoto. The first commercial freshwater pearl crops appeared in the 1930s, and became instantly sought, as the all-nacre Biwa pearls formed in colors unseen in saltwater pearls. Their luster and luminescence rivaled natural pearls because they, too, were pearls throughout. Biwas' success and publicity were so effective that until recently, all freshwater pearls were commonly referred to as "Biwas" — no matter where they came from and regardless of U.S. laws prohibiting such references unless the pearls are actually from Biwa. Nowadays, most freshwater pearls come from farms in China. The production of whole (oriental) cultured pearls also was perfected by the Japanese, a short time before they began culturing freshwater pearls. Kokichi Mikimoto concluded in the 1890s that a very small mother-of-pearl bead introduced into the mollusk's tissue was the most successful stimulant to pearl production. Oriental pearls have remained the most renowned and by far the most valuable. In 1916, Cartier & Co. traded two strands of them for a majestic building on Fifth Avenue in New York City. Jacqueline Kennedy later brought the gemstone to the height of modern fashion, regularly donning multistrand pearl necklaces both during and after her reign as first lady. Pearls are still a hot item, especially among actresses — Reese Witherspoon wore a double strand of Mikimoto Akoya pearls in the recent film "Legally Blond 2," and Uma Thurman, Diane Keaton, Maria Bello and Jessica Simpson all wore pearls to the 2004 Golden Globe awards.
The pearl is said to improve self-worth and help people see themselves. It is an emblem of modesty, chastity and purity, and symbolizes love, success and happiness. The gemstone also is associated with the ministry, bringing wisdom through experience. Pearls are purported to help to attune the chakras; since they are a soft white, they help bring soft, healing energy during meditation. In addition to their metaphysical properties, pearls are believed to eliminate emotional imbalances. By supposedly helping people master the heart chakra, they aid stomach, spleen, intestinal tract and ulcer problems. They also enjoy a long and varied list of "uses." These include cures for eye ailments, heart trouble, fever, bleeding, poisoning and indigestion. Because of pearls' high calcium content, some of these have seen actual clinical benefit (e.g. indigestion). A pearl water tonic can be made to increase vitality, relieve eyestrain and soothe burning urination: Place several small pearls in water overnight and drink the following day. This tonic is a natural antacid and anti-inflammatory. Pearls are found in Japan, China, Tahiti, Ceylon, Scotland, Norway, Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines, the U.S.A., Mexico and Burma. The finest oriental pearls are found in the Persian Gulf.
Cream Freshwater Pearl
Cream color has an ivory tinge and is possibly dyed. Be aware that dye can fade over time.
Dark Blue Freshwater Pearl
Dark-blue pearls are likely irradiated to achieve their color. This is a permanent treatment.
Garnet Freshwater Pearl
The deep wine color in these beads comes from dye, making them a great complement to garnet stones. Be aware that dye can fade over time.
Light Blue Freshwater Pearl
These pearls have been dyed to achieve their color. Be aware that dye can fade over time.
Multi-color Freshwater Pearl
These are pearls of the same shape in different colors, usually a mix of white, cream, pink and/or peach. White pearls might be bleached, which is permanent, and other colors might be dyed, a treatment which can fade over time.
Peach Freshwater Pearl
The color on these pearls is possibly dyed. Be aware that dye can fade over time.
Pink Freshwater Pearl
Pink is one of the most coveted pearl colors, and ours might be dyed. Be aware that dye can fade over time.
Shell Pearl
aka Shellies
A cross between real and faux gemstone, the shell pearl has become popular for its perfect shape, feeling and cost. Shell pearls are a genuine shell bead (usually mother of pearl) with a pearlized coating. The core is made from the same type of shells that produce real pearls. Therefore, a shell pearl's center is its most important trait, bestowing weight, value and durability. The creation process begins with pulverizing shells into a mix. The resulting material is combined with a binder and then formed into a perfectly shaped bead. The final step is adding the pearl coating, in which the primary ingredient is often ground fish scales or pearl powder. Some labs dip the beads into a coating solution, and others use high-powered sprayers. Shell pearls are unique in that their shape and color can be controlled, and they are available in almost any hue imaginable. The beads closely imitate the precise roundness and shine of oriental pearls, at a fraction of the cost. Their shell center also gives them a similar weight and feel to their expensive counterparts. In fact, the imitation is so fine that if you laid shell pearls next to cultured South Sea pearls of comparable quality and color, you wouldn't be able distinguish them. We've read of a Japanese experiment in which 90 shell pearls were mixed into a lot of cultured South Sea pearls, and buyers were unable to tell the difference. No matter how close the imitation, however, a shell pearl can easily be detected by the tooth test and by looking closely around the hole — the shell color inside is visible, and the pearly finish is often chipped just around the hole. But these issues are unnoticeable once the bead is strung. The finish will sometimes exhibit pock marks and nicks, like a freshwater pearl. Shell pearls are easier to care for than natural pearls; they are much less affected by sweat, perfume and detergents, and have a more durable shine and color.
Silver/Gray Freshwater Pearl
The cool hue on these beads is created via dye. Be aware that dye can fade over time.
Swarovski® Crystal Pearlaka Crystal Core Pearl, Lead Crystal Pearl
These "pearls" are absolutely faux and absolutely fabulous! Each bead has a genuine Swarovski crystal core and a synthetic pearly coating. Crystal pearls are the premium, top-grade imitation pearl. They are comparable to organic pearls in almost every way: shape, depth of luster, weight and even response to skin temperature. The Swarovski company's innovative coating technology applies the pearl finish in many layers, creating a glow that seems to radiate from within. The finished beads have a smooth, sensuous texture, a perfect shape and consistent color. The high specific gravity of crystal gives the bead an appropriately moderate weight. The beads' perfect luster is entirely free of flaws, while most manufactured pearls are either too shiny, too matte or too flawed on the surface (such as fibers and bumps). Manufactured pearls also tend to be too lightweight and are prone to fading and chipping. Crystal pearls are resistant to wear, perspiration, sunlight, scratches, perfumes and washing. Bonus: Swarovski updates its wide variety of colors and shapes twice a year, giving designers constantly renewed inspiration.
White Freshwater Pearl
White is the color most commonly associated with pearls, and they are likely bleached to achieve maximim whiteness.
Courtesy of Rings & Things Wholesale of Spokane, WA |
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